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Lab

On the first floor we develop C-41 as well as black-and-white films in 135 and 120 format ourselves. Processing time for C-41 development is usually one day, and for black-and-white films up to a week. For scanning we use a Noritsu HS-1800 and for printing an Epson Surelab 1000d.

Development

135 / 120: CHF 10.–

Scan (JPG)

135 Normal 10.– / Highres 25.–

120 Normal 15.– / Highres 25.–

Tiff files + CHF 5.– extra per film

File transfer with WeTransfer, AirDrop or transfer to drive upon pickup.


Normal scans are ideal for standard prints up to 10×15 cm, for archiving, sharing on social media, and viewing on screens, they are perfectly adequate for the vast majority of uses.

High-res scans are intended for large prints, extensive retouching, professional productions, and close-ups where every detail counts.

Film/Lab FAQ

Do your photos look different from what you expected? The film itself will usually reveal what happened. Place your negatives or scans next to the examples and compare them.

Here are the most common issues and how you can identify them yourself.

Incidentally, all the examples shown come from the archive of our Fotohaus team. They demonstrate that not every one of our photographs turns out perfectly either—and that is exactly how we learn.

Blank Film

Are small numbers and the film name visible along the edge of the film? If so, the film was developed correctly but was not exposed. If these edge markings are also missing, the problem may have occurred during development.

When loading the film, check whether the rewind crank turns as you advance the film.
Coloured Bands or Light Leaks

If the bands repeat at regular intervals along the edge of the film, the camera back or a light seal is often leaking. Irregular light leaks may indicate a problem with the shutter. Red or orange marks are usually caused by light entering from the back, while pale or white marks are more likely to be caused by light entering from the front.

Have the camera and its light seals inspected.
Double Exposures

If two photographs are superimposed throughout the entire roll, the film may have been used twice or the camera may have been set to multiple-exposure mode.

For next time: Label exposed rolls immediately and check the selected shooting mode before taking photographs.
Overlapping Images

If the gaps between the images are uneven or the edges of the images overlap, the camera is not advancing the film evenly.

For next time: This is usually caused by a problem with the film advance mechanism. Bring the camera in for inspection.
Individual Images Are Missing

Completely dark individual images are often caused by taking photographs in insufficient light or leaving the lens cap on.

For next time: Use a tripod and a longer exposure time in low light. Check that the lens cap has been removed before taking the photograph.
The First Image Is Partially Exposed

How to check: If the light leak affects only the first one or two images, it is usually the beginning of the film, which was briefly exposed to light while the film was being loaded. This is normal.

For next time: After loading the film, advance it until the section that was already exposed to light has been wound fully onto the take-up spool.
Blurred Images

If the images are uniformly soft, the camera may have moved during the exposure or the shutter speed may have been too slow. Stretched or trailing lines indicate movement. If another part of the image is sharp but the main subject is not, the photograph was focused incorrectly.
Images Are Too Dark or Too Bright

If the entire roll is consistently too dark or too bright, the film speed setting (ISO/ASA) or the exposure may have been incorrect. A flat battery in the camera’s light meter can also cause this problem. If the brightness varies from one image to another, the exposure was metered differently for each photograph.

For next time: Set the film speed to match the film you have loaded. Use a light-meter app if necessary, and make sure that the aperture and shutter speed are correctly balanced.
Colour Casts under Artificial Light

If indoor photographs appear orange under incandescent lamps or greenish under fluorescent lights, while photographs taken in daylight look normal, the light source is responsible rather than a defect. This is normal behaviour for film.
Haze across the Entire Roll

If all the images are covered by a grey haze or a wave-like pattern and the film was taken on a flight, an airport security scanner may be the cause. Modern CT scanners can damage film regardless of its ISO rating.

For next time: Ask for a hand inspection at the airport and, whenever possible, do not allow the film to pass through an X-ray or CT scanner.
Faded Colours and Low Contrast

Shifted colours, low contrast and more noticeable grain are typical signs of expired film or film that has been stored at excessively high temperatures.

For next time: Give expired film slightly more exposure. As a rough rule of thumb, add approximately one stop of exposure for every decade past the expiry date. Store film in a cool, dry place.
Black or White Spots and Threads

If a black spot appears in exactly the same place in every image, there is probably dirt inside the camera.

White spots that appear in different places are usually caused by dust during scanning.

For next time: Have the inside of the camera cleaned. If you notice white spots or lines, please contact us so that we can inspect the negatives and rescan the images if necessary.
Long Scratches across the Film

Continuous bright lines running in the direction of the film’s movement and appearing in the same place in every image are usually caused by a grain of dust or another foreign object in the camera’s film channel. Sharp, bright lines are scratches, while diffuse, even streaks indicate dust during scanning.

For next time: Bring the next roll in for inspection. If the same scratch appears again, the camera’s film channel should be cleaned.
Spiderweb-Like Lines Caused by Static Discharge

Fine, branching lines that resemble a spiderweb or small flashes of lightning are usually caused by a static discharge in the film. Possible causes include very dry air or advancing the film too quickly. In our experience, CineStill films and Fomapan 100 are particularly susceptible.

Image source: CineStill

For next time: Advance and rewind the film slowly and evenly. Handle the film with particular care in very dry conditions.

We develop film using a strictly controlled process and rarely make mistakes. If we do make one, we communicate it openly.

However, the vast majority of issues occur inside the camera or while the photograph is being taken and they can almost always be resolved. Bring your camera and film to us. We will inspect the film advance mechanism, light seals and shutter, and show you what caused the problem.

Compare scan quality – hover with the mouse or touch the image to see the loupe

Compare scan quality